Ever found yourself staring at rows of shampoo bottles in the aisle, thinking, "Which one is actually right for me?" If so, you're in good company. Most advice only scratches the surface-pick for your hair type, maybe your scalp, and cross your fingers. But if you really want healthy, manageable hair, it’s time to dig a little deeper. As a stylist with 20 years behind the chair, I’m ready to share the insider tips that can truly transform your hair care routine.
Looking Past Just Hair Type
Most guides say you should pick your shampoo based on simple categories like:
- Hair texture (straight, curly, wavy, coily)
- Scalp type (oily, dry, normal)
- Color-treated vs. natural
That’s a decent start-but real results come when you consider a few lesser-known, crucial factors.
The Three Hidden Keys to Choosing Shampoo
- Hair Porosity
Porosity is how easily your hair absorbs and holds onto moisture and products. Think of your hair’s cuticle like shingles on a roof: they may lie flat (low porosity), be slightly raised (normal), or be wide open (high porosity). Here’s how different porosity levels affect your shampoo experience:
- Low porosity: Products and moisture tend to sit on the surface. This leads to build-up. Go for lighter, clarifying shampoos and avoid heavy oils.
- Medium/Normal porosity: Balanced absorption. Most formulas work well, but adjust with the seasons or after coloring.
- High porosity: Absorbs product and water quickly but loses moisture just as fast. Look for hydrating, cuticle-smoothing shampoos with a touch of protein, yet avoid harsh or stripping suds.
Wondering how to check your porosity? Try the “water glass test”: Place a clean strand in a glass of water. If it floats, think low porosity; if it hovers, medium; and if it sinks, high.
- Water Quality
Ever notice your hair behaves differently when you travel? It’s not your imagination-it’s the water. Here’s what you need to know:
- Hard water (lots of minerals) causes build-up, leaves hair dull, and makes shampoo harder to rinse.
- Soft water rinses clean but can make shampoos too strong for daily use, risking dryness if the formula is harsh.
If you have hard water, rotate in a clarifying shampoo or one with chelating agents occasionally to tackle that stubborn residue. In soft water areas, a gentle, balanced formula is your friend.
- Surfactant Science
Surfactants are what actually clean your hair. Not all cleansers are created equal!
- Harsh detergents, like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), can strip natural oils and color.
- Gentle cleansers (like sodium cocoyl isethionate) get hair clean without roughing it up or causing irritation.
If your hair is colored, curly, or delicate, stick to a sulfate-free formula with mild cleansers. For oily, fine hair, find a balanced shampoo that breaks down oils but won’t leave your hair squeaky or flat.
How to Shop Like a Haircare Pro
When choosing a shampoo, ask yourself:
- What is my hair porosity?
- What kind of water do I use at home?
- Which surfactants-or cleansing agents-are in the formula?
Bringing these questions into your decision-making can make a world of difference. You’ll see less buildup, brighter color, and smoother, more manageable strands.
The Bar Shampoo Movement: Sustainability Meets Results
Bar shampoos aren’t just an eco-friendly fad. Many bars-like those from Viori-feature gentle, coconut-derived cleansers, pH-balanced formulations, and targeted ingredients to work with every hair and scalp type. From the oil-busting power of Citrus bars to the hydration of Hidden Waterfall or Terrace Garden, there’s a bar for almost everyone.
If you have color-treated hair and are using a bar, lather it up in your hands first, and then apply-doing so protects your color from unnecessary friction and fade.
Final Salon Wisdom
If you’ve only shopped for shampoo by “hair type” in the past, try incorporating porosity and water quality into your choice for the next few months. Odds are, you’ll enjoy stronger, shinier, and easier-to-style hair-regardless of what’s on the bottle label.
Got a specific question or want to learn more about ingredients or how your environment affects your hair? Share your thoughts below-I love talking hair science and finding real-world solutions for all hair types!