Baking soda-a staple in every kitchen and the secret behind fluffy pancakes. But should it be your secret weapon for “super clean” hair? As someone who’s spent two decades in the world of hair, I’m here to take you behind the scenes of this internet trend and reveal what actually happens to your hair and scalp when you reach for that little orange box.
The baking soda hair wash craze claims to sweep away oil and build-up, leaving your scalp refreshed and your tresses squeaky clean. Sounds tempting, right? But before you toss out your shampoo, let’s unravel the real science at work-because “squeaky clean” doesn’t always mean healthy hair.
What Really Happens When You Use Baking Soda on Your Hair?
First, let’s get one thing straight: baking soda is highly alkaline, with a pH around 9. Meanwhile, your hair and scalp naturally sit at a more acidic pH of about 4.5 to 5.5. When you wash with baking soda, here’s what’s going on:
- Cuticle Lift: That high pH pries open your hair’s cuticle (the shingle-like outer layer), leaving the internal structure exposed and vulnerable.
- Strips Away Sebum: It quickly dissolves oil and build-up, which at first feels great-but also removes your hair’s protective barrier.
- Breaks Keratin Bonds: Over time, the protein that gives hair its strength and snap starts to weaken and lose elasticity.
The Hidden Dangers No One Mentions
While you might love the fresh start, the downside often creeps up on you. Here’s what I see in the salon from folks who go all-in with the “No Poo” trend:
- Irreversible Lipid Loss: You know that natural shine and softness? That comes from 18-methyleicosanoic acid-a natural lipid coating your hair. Once baking soda strips it away, it doesn’t come back until new hair grows in. Hello, frizz and relentless dryness!
- Protein Weakness: The strong keratin bonds that keep hair bouncy and resilient break down, leading to splits, breakage, dullness, and a loss of body.
- Accelerated Color Fading: Both natural and dyed hair lose pigment more rapidly with open cuticles-color molecules slip out, and sunlight can do even more damage.
- Scalp Microbiome Disruption: An alkaline shift disrupts your scalp’s natural acid mantle, leading to irritation, sensitivity, or sudden bouts of flakes and oiliness.
Baking Soda Plus Vinegar: Fix or Folly?
Some DIYers try to “balance” baking soda with apple cider vinegar rinses. While the idea is to return your hair to a safe pH, swinging between harshly alkaline and sharply acidic back-to-back is tough on the cuticle and internal proteins. Our scalp and strands aren’t built for chemical ping pong-and it can trigger even more breakage and brittleness over time.
No Residue, But At What Cost?
It’s easy to fall for that fresh, oil-free feeling. But a completely bare cuticle isn’t a healthy one. Without that natural (or added) protective layer, your hair experiences constant friction-from towels, pillows, or even the air-leading to more frizz, breakage, and a rougher-to-the-touch texture. In haircare, sometimes a tiny bit of residue is actually your friend-it helps your hair slide and resist damage.
Should Anyone Use Baking Soda for Hair?
There are extremely rare cases-a sudden need to strip out a stubborn buildup with no professional chelating shampoo in sight-where a very diluted baking soda wash might make sense. But for day-to-day use or for anyone with colored, textured, dry, or curly hair (or a sensitive scalp), it’s a hard no from professionals. The long-term molecular toll isn’t worth it.
The Professional Bottom Line
There’s no shortcut to strong, shiny hair. Baking soda’s version of “deep clean” damages the very structure and surface of your hair, stripping away irreplaceable protection and undermining everything that makes hair beautiful. Once your cuticle and internal proteins are compromised, not even the best conditioner can restore them fully.
- Stick to sulfate-free, pH-balanced shampoos for cleansing.
- Use clarifiers designed for hair (not kitchen cabinets) to tackle buildup.
- Moisturize after every wash to seal the cuticle and protect your hair’s natural assets.
- Respect your scalp’s natural acidity-that’s your best guard against irritation and dullness.
Your hair is more than just what you see-it’s a tiny ecosystem of lipids, proteins, and delicate bonds. Treat it with gentle respect and it will return the favor for years to come.
Have more questions about hair science or want personalized product recommendations? Leave a comment below-I love sharing the real facts with fellow hair enthusiasts!